82 winter kilometres along the Heaphy Track

Wilderness Magazine

November 1999

The Heaphy in winter. Everyone thought we were mad. Surely it would rain, snow and we would freeze. Luckily for us the doomsayers were wrong and we enjoyed the track in four glorious, almost cloudless days. Admittedly the evenings and the mornings were cold and in some shadier parts of the track we were still crunching through frost in mid-afternoon. There were some advantages in doing the track in winter though - like the fact we met just one tramper during the whole trip.

It's easy to see why the Heaphy Track is one of New Zealand's great walks. Covering 82 kilometres from the middle of the top of the South Island to the West Coast, it combines the best of New Zealand's scenery - beech forests, mountains, rivers, plains and wild West Coast beaches.

It wasn't the scenery, however, that prompted Maori to mark a trail from one side of the coast to the other. The track formed part of the pounamu trail. Later Europeans, including the track's namesake Charles Heaphy, surveyed the West Coast part of the track and then miners searching for gold traversed the area. Walking the well-marked track now, it's hard to imagine how those early explorers bush bashed their way across such varied terrain.

Now the track can be done in four to six days. If you're keen you could crank it out in three but it's worth spending that extra day and making the most of the spectacular scenery. There are numerous huts on the track making it easy to break into chunks that suit the amount of time you have available and your fitness level.

We chose to take four days, starting at the Collingwood end. We arranged for Heaphy Track transport to pick us up from the River Inn, near Takaka, where we had spent a relaxing night talking to the owners who have converted the old pub into a welcoming back packers.

The first day's walk, of approximately five hours, is pretty much all-uphill through mature beech podocarp forest with numerous glimpses into the Aorere River and surrounding ranges. It's not an arduous climb though, the gradient is steady and its easy going on the wide track. On the way we pass the track's highest point - 910 metres. A five-minute detour from the track leads to impressive views. At the edge of the bush line is Perry Saddle hut. That night we were treated to calls from numerous great-spotted kiwi and a curious weka.

In the morning we headed off to Gouland Downs hut. The valley quickly opens up and mountain beech gives way to extensive tussock lands with rich herb fields. The Gouland Downs is an amazing area with patterns of vegetation representing both its geological and ecological complexity. The track winds its way across the downs and it takes about one-and-a-half hours to reach the historic Gouland Downs hut, which is full of character and a fitting testament to early trampers and explorers.

From here, Saxon Hut is another one-and a-half-hours, which makes for an ideal lunch spot. At one of the higher points of the track we get our first glimpse of the West Coast and the Heaphy River mouth.

James MacKay Hut is reached six-and-a-half-hours after setting out. It's named after the explorer who surveyed the area in 1888. The hut has impressive views down to the coast and has the added luxury of two flush toilets just outside the door.

On our third day, we headed down towards the Heaphy River. The track mostly runs through bush, initially under a red beech canopy but increasingly amongst tall rimus and lower down, the northern rata. Occasionally we see the Heaphy River but we know it's getting closer by the eerie roar creeping up the hill. Like the first day, the descent is gradual and finished by the time we reached Lewis Hut. It's during this stretch we met the only other tramper we saw during our four days on the track.

The Lewis Hut is nestled right beside the junction of the Lewis and Heaphy Rivers. Despite the cooler temperatures, sandflies are out in force and make the most of having us for lunch while we eat ours.

The wide riverbeds are tempting to explore and just beyond the hut is a white granite sandy beach and many great swimming holes. A welcome swim? Not on your life! Distinctive nikau trees stand out in the surrounding bush. On the true left of the Heaphy River we came across a huge northern rata - a true grand daddy - supporting a forest amongst its branches. The next two-and-a-half hours along to the Heaphy River mouth takes us through dense nikau palm forests, startling numerous kereru along the way. The walk is magical and finishes at the Heaphy Hut, which is like paradise. If only it was a few degrees warmer we could have imagined we were on a tropical island. An impressive grass lawn spreads out in front of the hut to the point where the river meets the sea. The white beach spans in front of us until the next point interrupts its flow. Wild waves roll in making the scene everything you'd expect of the West Coast.

The next day it takes about five hours to reach the end of the track and the scenery is magnificent. The track, lined with nikau, winds its way along the coast. All day we are just metres from the beach and on one beach stumble across a small seal basking in the warm sun. The low tide meant it was possible to rock hop our way round Crayfish point which added a bit of extra time. Towards the end of the track, we climbed over Kohaihai Saddle where there was a last chance to look back along the coast. The track ends near the Kohaihai River and it is fitting that the scenery here is as breathtaking as the last four days. Who needs to go to Fiji for their winter holidays!

Wildfile

The Heaphy can be walked from either the Collingwood end or West Coast - Karamea - end. Mostly it's done from north to south because after the first day, the track is generally downhill. During the summer months - October to March - both ends are well serviced with regular bus transport.

During winter the regular bus travel from Nelson to the Collingwood end of the track is not available. However, Heaphy Track Transport can get you there.

We stayed at the River Inn just outside Takaka but if you want to spend an extra night on the track, Browns Hut is just five minutes walk in. Huts are in excellent condition, the majority with gas cooking, some pots and many with flush toilets. Kindling, wood and coal were provided. Hut passes cost $12 (winter) and $15 (summer). Camping fees are approximately half the hut fee.

A lift can be arranged into Karamea from the end of the track - there's a phone. If you're after a treat and a cold beer there are a number of places to wet your whistle and appetite.

For more information about the track pick up a brochure from DoC or visit their website www.doc.govt.nz